TheRootedMomEdit

I have finally stayed on the retinoid train because I actually followed the “rules” this time. Retinoids speed up cell turnover (to reveal fresh skin underneath), boost collagen production, even out skin tone, & smooth wrinkles.

The umbrella of retinoids explained:

1.) Retinyl Esters: 3-step conversion to retinoic acid. This is the weakest of the retinoids.

2.) Retinol: 2-step conversion to retinoic acid. This has mild to moderate irritation possibility.

3.) Retinaldehyde: 1-step conversion to retinoic acid. This is the most potent of the non-prescription retinoids. It can also cause mild to moderate irritation.

4.) Retinoic Acid (such as Tretinoin): Highest irritation possibility. This is the strongest retinoid & is prescription only.

How to choose a retinoid for your skin:

Through my many years of research in the skincare world, I have read countless articles speaking on the ineffectiveness of retinyl esters. I personally have never used that type of retinoid so I cannot speak on it from experience. I have used retinol, retinal, & adapolene (a prescription strength retinoid that you can get OTC. It is a synthetic retinoid typically used for acne).

In my experience, using a retinol serum posed no irritation or issues for me. Once I stepped into the retinal world, the irritation/purging/break-outs/redness began (because I didn’t follow all the rules!).

Sometimes with skincare, it is a LOT of trial and error. Different formulas with the same active ingredient may not agree with your skin; it might not be the active, it could be the other included ingredients in the product. I tried two retinaldehyde serums before the one I am using (and loving) currently. BUT- to be truthful, I didn’t follow the “rules” to a T when I was trying the other retinal serums. I could have absolutely been the reason my skin got irritated & not the formula itself.

If you are completely new to retinoids, I would start off with a retinOL formula. I have used and loved the Naturium Retinol Complex Serum on and off for years. I never had any issues with this serum, even when used every night. When I got back into retinoids after being pregnant/nursing, this is the serum I started with! Using the retinol serum every night basically prepped my skin for a stronger formula.

Once you have dabbled in the retinOL world for some time without irritation, you could try a retinaldehyde for a more potent, yet gentle active.

This is where the retinoid rules play a HUGE part in the process! Let’s get into it.

Retinoid “rules” to follow:

These rules technically still apply to those using a retinOL for the first time, but for me personally, I was able to use the Naturium retinol serum mentioned above, every other night for a little while and then quickly moved to every night without any issues. I feel like the retinoid rules really apply when you are wanting to start using a stronger formula.

Rule #1.) Start LOW & SLOW. Apply your retinoid of choice just 2 to 3 nights a week for FOUR weeks.

For me, when I moved up to retinal, I applied the Prequel Retinal Renew 0.1% every third night for 4 weeks. My skin experienced very minimal purging, aka: small breakouts. Retinoids increase cellular turnover, which can bring impurities to the surface at the beginning- this means it’s working though so stick with it!

If your skin is tolerating the frequency well for 4 weeks, you can move to every other night. For me, I plan to stick with every other night for a long while simply because I exfoliate on the opposite night as my retinoid. So every other night I am applying either my retinal or my exfoliating acid. This frequency has worked really well for me thus far!

Rule #2.) Only apply your retinoid at NIGHT. Sunlight can break down the active ingredient and can also cause sensitivity. This is another reason to be extra diligent about applying your daily facial SPF in the mornings if you are actively using retinoids at night!

Rule #3.) Only use a pea-sized amount. Using more can actually cause irritation you may not have experienced otherwise, and does not equal faster results! Trust me on this one.

Rule #4.) Separate other active ingredients. Definitely avoid layering your retinoid with your stronger exfoliating acids as this can really irritate your skin. I have read mixed opinions on this particular rule; some people with more mature skin (who have used retinoids and acids for many many years) have no issues layering both actives. This rule really speaks to people who are new to retinoids, those with sensitive or reactive skin, & those with less mature skin types.

*If you have more sensitive skin and want to use a stronger formula like a retinaldehyde, you can do the “sandwich method”. This is where you would apply a very thin layer of your moisturizer, followed by a pea-sized amount of the retinoid, and then seal it with another layer of moisturizer. This can help minimize irritation and give your skin a buffer against the retinoid. You could use this method for 4 weeks, then start applying the retinoid directly to your skin every third night for a few more weeks before moving on to every other night. This “slows the process”, but slower is truthfully better when it comes to your retinoid!

My current (& still minimal) nighttime skincare routine:

-First, double cleanse. I am using the Prequel Cleansing Oil as my first cleanse, followed by the Prequel Gleanser as my second cleanse.

-Every other night I apply either the Prequel Retinal OR I exfoliate with the Paulas Choice Mandelic Acid Liquid Exfoliant. Sometimes I use the Barefaced Toning Pads instead just because I have them! I really like these but they are a little pricey so I don’t plan to repurchase.

-Every night regardless of the retinoid or acid, I moisturize with the Prequel Multi-Quench Gel Cream and layer the Prequel AM/PM Daily Moisturizer on top.

That is my whole PM routine right now and I am loving how minimal it is, how quickly it is to do & how healthy my skin has been.

I hope this decoded the confusion on retinoids for you! Retinoids are the gold standard for anti-aging, smoothing the skin, boosting collagen production, & clearing/preventing acne. They have been around for decades for a reason. Once you commit to slowly introducing one into your routine, you won’t regret it!